Three countries in one go: Republic of Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo, and the Central African Republic, this was an opportunity I always dreamed of. For each country you normally need a lot of preparation, and join a tour, as usually you will not get a visa without a formal invitation by a certified travel agent.
The tour was offered by Diamir, a German tour operator, and the idea was to board a ship in Ouesso, in the North of the Republic of Congo, and from there visiting National Parks, going up the Sangha River until Central Africa, visiting the Dzanga Sangha National Park, and from there going downstream the Sangha River, until it meets the Congo River, and then downstream the Congo River until Brazzaville.
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Alas, it did not work out that way. The water level of the Sangha River was too shallow to go upstream, and downstream we got stuck on a sandbank after a few kilometers. Heading back to Ouesso and then going South overland, with a bus. Which resulted in less comfort which our ship, the Princesse Ngalessa offered. And doing the tour on the Sangha with speed boats, upriver until the Doli Lodge in the Central African Republic, which was our base for exploring the National Park for a couple of days.
Less comfort, but nevertheless a great adventure. Returning from the Dzanga Sangha National Park to the Doli Lodge, a forest Elefant crossed our path and started to threaten us. So our driver had to go into reverse for quite a kilometer, always to be followed by the angry elephant, and we in the 4x4 being tense how the story would end. Eventually, we reached the camp of the rangers, where 2 rangers armed with rifles joined our car, heading back direction elephant. And then there he was. The rangers got out, we went again into reverse, out of sight, and then we heard shots. Rangers returned, they did warning shots, and the elephant was clever enough to realize that it was time for him to disappear. And eventually we arrived at our lodge safely.
Another day we could visit a village of Pygmies, which welcomed us with great fanfare. I played „wizard“ with an instant camera, and the kids were more then surprised when they saw themselves gradually appearing on the foto. These people still live from the forest that surrounds them.
And then there was the Bonobo Camp, located in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). So we had the cross the Congo River from the one Congo to the other. Interestingly, the tour operator managed to get us over into DRC without requiring a visa. When we left the Republic of Congo, formally, in Mpouya, we entered a boat which the owner of the boat equipped with chairs, crossing over to Tshumbiri, from where we took a 4x4 to the Bonobo Camp, where we spent one night, again welcome by the locals, who performed dances for us. And although the camp was located far out, we had WiFi!
On our way to the camp we had to stop at the village to which the camp belongs, and ask formal permission from the chief to pass. Which we of course got. Always surrounded by countless kids who wanted a selfie with us.
Accomodation in the camp was basic, and some even put up tents. And in the early morning around 3:30 am we were woken up, took an early breakfast (i.e. what was available), and by 4:30 we left in total darkness, with our 4X4. The point is that you have to be in the forest around 5:30 when it slowly gets light. Then the Bonobos wake up in their nests high up in the trees, and then you have a chance to see them. When they start moving.
We saw the Bonobos only from far away, and in the early morning in half darkness it was difficult to make fotos. But some of our group which carried kilograms of expensive foto equipment through the jungle finally made their catch.
We crossed back into the Republic of Congo (which seems to be much more orderly, judging from the village Tshumbiri in the DRC that we passed), and continued to Brazzaville.
And in another park there was a station where rescued gorillas (taken in as babies when their mother was killed for bush meat) were taken care of and raised, half wild, on an island.
By boat we came pretty close to this guy, and our guide threw over some bananas which the gorilla caught and swallowed.
When we eventually arrived in Brazzaville, safe and dry, we got an opportunity to see Sapeurs. Locals who dress themselves very expensively, showing off, just negating their life circumstances.
There are many more stories to tell of this journey, many more parks we visited near Ouesso, but I want to keep it short. It was a great adventure, but guided, so we always were in safe hands, and as long we could enjoy our vessel Princess Ngalessa, we even enjoyed luxury, with exquisite French cuisine (the owner of the vessel is French). I can only keep fingers crossed the the water level of the Sangha river will rise to an extent that this wonderful ship can do the tour as originally planned. But even without having this ship all the time around us, this was a marvellous tour which I only can recommend.
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